For years, most of the turkeys cooked in the Free Press Test Kitchen were brined in some fashion. When brining became all the rage in the late 1990s, we hopped aboard. A few years ago, New York Times food columnist Kim Severson wrote a column apologizing to readers for recommending brining in salt water. The column essentially suggested that brining is out of favor, though Severson spoke to several people who turkey brine wet-brine their turkeys.